PacTravel
Paddling Through Paradise
Seeing Kosrae’s Mangrove Forests In A Canoe
There’s a secret that some Pacific Islands visitors authorities don’t want you to know: their islands are often bordered by thick strands of mangrove forests, not the sugar-white sand beaches found on most postcards. That may be bad news for brochure designers, but it can be good news for tourists.
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Kosrae, the small gem of an island in the Eastern Carolines that is one of four states in the Federated States of Micronesia, is learning how to take maximum advantage of its stunning mangrove forests. A number of visitor attractions and services there now offer guided or self-guided tours of the mangroves. Think Venice with the buildings replaced by a canopy of pristine mangrove forests. And instead of a gondola, you paddle your way through a series of waterways in kayaks or traditional carved outrigger canoes.
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| Tips For Trips Accommodations: There are a number of smaller hotels on Kosrae, but two properties dominate the industry. Kosrae Nautilus Resort: Geoff Raaschou is the manager and founder, and has developed a highly regarded property. The air conditioned resort maintains extremely high standards for cleanliness, in rooms, on the hotel grounds, and in the dining room. Contact Geoff via e-mail at nautilus@mail.fm. Or by telephone (691) 370-3567, or facsimile (691) 370-3568. www.kosraenautilus.com Kosrae Village Resort: Katrina Adams runs this rustic eco-resort. If you want a local-style option for a hotel, this is it. There’s hot water and a couple of small lights in the room, but forget asking about air conditioning, phones in room or in-room televisions. Contact Katrina at info@kosraevillage.com. Or by telephone (691) 370-3483 or facsimile (691) 370-5839. www.kosraevillage.com |
One of the best known is the tour offered at the Utwe-Walung Marine Park, an excellent example of community participation in low-impact tourism. The Marine Park is made up of acres of mangrove forest. Its main purpose is to educate local students about this important ecological resource; Kosraeans still use the mangrove forests for building materials and to harvest fish and other marine life found under the thick canopy that extends into the ocean.
At the Utwe-Walung Marine Park, it is possible to book a tour of the area’s mangrove forest with Tadao Wakuk. He’s an amazing storyteller who will stun you with his knowledge of the plants and animals found in the mangrove forests. Tadao carefully guides an outrigger canoe through the river-like waterways that transect the area. He’ll stop occasionally to allow visitors to walk across the thick roots that line the forest floor.
One of the more interesting aspects of Tadao’s tour is his recounting of Kosraean legends, and the traditional medicinal uses of many plants found in the mangrove forest or along the nearby seashore. His tour ends when he stops the canoe in Utwe Bay across from the Marine Park’s thatched visitors’ center. Right below the canoe, he points out, is the remains of the pirate Bully Hayes’ ship. It is a “chicken skin” moment.
A relatively new group, Island Kayaks, offers guided or solo tours of Kosrae’s mangrove forests. And the Kosrae Nautilus Resort, which is bordered by a beautiful beach and the ocean on one side, and a mangrove forest on the other side, rents kayaks for those who want to paddle themselves through the jungle.
There’s also another forest tour that’s worth noting: Ackley Wakuk, Tadao’s brother, offers a hiking tour of Kosrae’s lush tropical rainforest. Kosrae is one of the most beautiful high islands in the Pacific. It is possible to hike to stunning waterfalls, or to ancient stone ruins. And it is likely you won’t find another soul on the trail during the hike.
The Kosrae Visitors Bureau is headed by Grant Ismael, a Kosraean whose knowledge of his island is exceeded only by his enthusiasm for wanting to share it with newcomers. The KVB office is a traditionally styled thatched building that you can’t miss when you’re in the island’s main village of Tofol. There’s only one main road.
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The mangrove forest isn’t the only thing to see or do on Kosrae. The island has some of the best reef diving in the Pacific. It also has awe-inspiring ruins, built by an ancient people about whom little is known, that are easily accessible. And it may be one of the last islands in the North Pacific on a main air route that still feels like the Pacific Islands of 40 years ago.
But start with a canoe trip through Kosrae’s mangrove forest. It will literally give you a different perspective on island life.
