PacTravel
Silent Running
Kayaking Offers Palau Visitors Another Way To Explore
Palau is best known to tourists as a diving destination. The ocean that laps at the shores of the country’s famed Rock Islands yields an array of discoveries for the underwater explorer: schools of sharks, sea turtles cruising gracefully by, fantastically-shaped coral in shades too vivid to seem natural, exotic fish darting into anemones—and underwater wrecks that stand in mute memorial to the brutal history of World War II. It is with good reason that dives such as Blue Corner, Peleliu Express and Ulong Channel have gained international attention.
 |
All too often, though, visitors come to Palau and spend cloistered vacations splitting time between dive boat and hotel, seeing the country solely through mask and snorkel. After flying thousands of miles to a unique—and some say endangered—environment and culture, they will spend most of their time with American guides and other divers. As part of the long line of boats that troop to the dive sites every day, they run the risk of experiencing only one facet of Palau’s vivid beauty.
- ADVERTISEMENT -
While no one would suggest foregoing diving in Palau, there are activities that can complement diving and illuminate the country’s aquatic and terrestrial wonders more fully. A traveler with a little gumption, and even one extra day, can strike out across the country’s calm waters in a sea kayak.
Kayaking rarely imparts the same adrenaline rush as diving, but it allows the traveler to slow down and take note of the shades of the sea, the movement of the wind and the warmth of the sun. It opens up parts of Palau that would otherwise be invisible from a speeding powerboat. You can paddle to a stand of mangroves and investigate this unique ecosystem, which acts as a natural filter between land and sea and as a nursery for juvenile fish. You can duck through limestone tunnels into marine lakes at the center of Rock Islands.
 |
If you work your way up one of the big rivers that drain into the sea from the heart of Palau’s largest island of Babeldaob, you will discover the jungle will grow thicker, like walls of electrified green. The entrancing rhythm of paddling might be broken if you have the good fortune to surprise a turtle sunning itself on the surface of the water or find a massive ray skimming next to your boat in water so blue it appears to stain the wings of the white birds hovering over it. At times, the paddle startles schools of fish which leap in a silver stream across the bow of the boat. There are sometimes Palauan fishermen trolling for their supper, and you can swap stories and sometimes they will offer you a fish or a cold beer.
Kayaking does take a little extra work—you have to paddle, after all—but it’s an activity that well rewards the effort. The rudiments of kayaking can be grasped in a single lesson, and Palau is a wonderful place to learn, thanks to a protective reef that typically keeps the water smooth. Moreover, the diversity of Palau’s offerings lets you create a kayak experience tailored to your particular desires. Inexperienced kayakers should probably opt for a guided outing, while those with paddling miles under their belt can chart a multi-day solo trip to some of the most remote and magical parts of Palau.
 |
No matter your skill or comfort level, before setting out, make sure to head down to Planet Blue Sea Kayak Tours, operated out of the well-known dive shop Sam’s Tours. There, you can rent equipment, arrange an excursion or a one-on-one guide, or devise an itinerary to follow on your own. Planet Blue’s founder Ron Leiditch is the person to see. As a guide, Ron has no equal. Not only are he and his staff passionate about kayaking, but Ron’s also a biologist, so his commentary on the sites and wildlife you pass adds richness to your trip. Planet Blue’s one-day tours are ideal for the beginner, combining motor boat and paddling to enable people of all abilities and fitness levels to enjoy the beauty of the Rock Islands from a kayak.
Those with time, confidence, and some stamina should consider a multi-day trip. You can either arrange for a guided expedition through Planet Blue, or chart a route, rent gear and do it yourself. A wonderful three-day, two-night trip is to circumnavigate the large Rock Island of Ngeruktabel. The route winds through the inner Rock Islands and there are good snorkeling and fishing spots along the way, in addition to pristine beaches, marine lakes, caves and World War II artifacts. Any overnight trip in the Rock Islands will involve carrying your own food and water, and will require that you camp.
For an altogether different perspective, consider heading down the coast of Babeldaob. While this itinerary won’t bring you through the Rock Islands, you will enjoy consistently breathtaking views of Babeldaob’s rugged land and hills. Arrange with state offices to stay overnight in a Palauan home in any of the villages that dot the east and west coasts of the big island. With advance notice, your hosts will cook you three meals a day, likely including the freshest fish you’ve tasted. It’s wonderful to get a Palauan perspective as you explore the ruins of a pre-World War II Japanese pineapple factory in Ngaremlengui or hike on an ancient stone path to visit a bai (a traditional men’s meeting house) in Melekeok, or wander through a field of prehistoric stone monoliths in Ngarechlong. You can also find small-scale hotels in some villages, including beach-side cottages in Choll, Ngaraard and cabins near Palau’s famous waterfall in Ngardmau.
However long the trip, kayaking shows off the stunning beauty of Palau at a slower pace and on its own terms. There is nothing like paddling in the silent, golden light of the end of the day, the contours of the Rock Islands fading to silhouette. As such times, this magical land becomes partly yours—because you have journeyed out to meet it.
