Dateline Taveuni

Everyone's heard about "Fiji time." It's a relaxed approach to everyday life, a feeling the new day is stretching on forever and might never end. To the weary refugee from the Western world's rat race, it's the embodiment of the work/life balance so often talked about in the media.

It's so relaxed, that you might just forget what day it is. And that's a familiar feeling on Taveuni, bisected by the 180th meridian of longitude. For part of the 19th century, this geographical accident meant the island was divided into two days: the west side today, the east yesterday. Or if you prefer, the east today and the west tomorrow.

Early plantation owners reputedly managed to keep their workers active for seven days a week, by moving them to whichever part of the plantation wasn't experiencing a Sunday. After an 1879 ordinance the whole island was brought into the same day.

However, that sense of "flexible time" is still tangible on Fiji's third-largest island.

Ratu Misa Lesuma, a Taveuni chief, thinks this is part of the island's charm. "Taveuni lacks tourist infrastructure, but many people like that," he says. "Tourists ask me when the 9 o'clock bus will come, it's a question like 'When will the rain finish?' Taveuni is attractive because it's unstructured and unspoilt. People love that kind of stuff. It's not your five-star hotel type of experience."

Another point of contrast is its greenery. Fiji's islands are notable for their tropical plant life, but Taveuni abounds in lush rainforest, particularly on its eastern windward side. Along with this vegetation come spectacular waterfalls and beautiful flowers. The indigenous red and white tagimaucia flower grows near Lake Tagimaucia, high among the chain of dormant volcanic cones which form the island. These steep mountains, among Fiji's largest, are often covered by cloud and add to Taveuni's dramatic appearance.

The attractions extend offshore. A series of reefs off Taveuni's coast have created a diver's paradise. In late 1999, dive companies were (erroneously) extolling the excitement of diving across the International Dateline while the clock struck 2000. But dates aside, Taveuni's diving sites are world class.

Its underwater vistas are dominated by the soft coral that moves with the flow of underwater currents. Red, white, orange and pink shades are a bold contrast with the watery environment. An impressive number of fish species patrol the waters, giving plenty of opportunity for photographic encounters. The diver can also encounter turtles, dolphins, rays and sharks.

There are numerous dive locations, but the most memorable is the Great White Wall, in the Somosomo Strait between Taveuni and its nearby neighbor Vanua Levu. This underwater area is covered by an expanse of lavender-tinged soft coral, extending over 50 metres in depth.

Back on land, there are plenty of attractions for the non-diver. One of the most charming is the Bouma National Heritage Park. Covering 15,000 hectares on the eastern side of the island, this area was created in conjunction with four local villages, the Fijian and New Zealand governments, and conservation bodies. The main feature of the park is the walking trail to the Bouma Falls.

Broken into three stages, which become progressively more challenging, it can be attempted by the casual tourist or the keen hiker.

Further south is the Lavena Coastal Walk, leading from the village of the same name along a flat, well-maintained path following the coastline. Its final destination, the lower Wainabau Waterfalls, requires a short swim before it's reached, but is worth the effort.

For the less adventurous, the Vidawa Forest Walk is a guided trip through the Bouma National Heritage Park, covering flora, fauna, archeological remains and a swim at the Bouma Falls.

A man-made item of interest is the Catholic Church at Waiyevo, overlooking the Somosomo Strait off the island's west coast. It's hard to imagine a more appropriate location for a structure encouraging heavenly thoughts. The view over the strait toward Taveuni's larger neighbour Vanua Levu is spectacular, a vista of blue water, vegetation and distant misty mountains. Equally heavenly is the singing of the congregation on a Sunday, drifting out from the open church.

Spectacular waterfalls are common on Taveuni.

Not far from Waiyevo is a drab sign on the roadside, marking the location of the 180th meridian. A more accurately placed marker lies just beyond the end of the Waiyevo village football field, overlooking the strait.

Accommodation varies in price and style across the island, though budget lodgings are thin on the ground. Among the less expensive is Susie's Plantation Resort in the south. There's a choice of self-contained rooms or bures (the Fijian-style bungalow), around 50 Fijian dollars (or US$30) a night at the bottom of the range.

At the top of the range is the Taveuni Island Resort, at the north-west tip of the island near the airport. This luxury resort houses just seven bures, with a maximum of 14 guests in all. Food is a highlight, with Fijian, Indian and international dishes served with organically grown salads, herbs and vegetables. Candlelit meals are served above ocean views. Note though, a bed in this classy establishment will set you back around US$300 a night.

A more economical choice, with equally spectacular food and views, is the Coconut Grove Cottages. A short walk from the airport, its elegant wooden house and bures look over the water and a string of islets on the horizon. Each evening its broad balcony becomes a restaurant. The food betters some of the neighboring resorts, made with fresh ingredients and locally-caught fish. A popular local dish is kokoda, comprised of raw white fish marinated in lemon juice, coconut cream and herbs.

The bures at Coconut Grove each have a private open-air shower with a view over the sea, and cost about US$125 a night.

It's important to remember that Taveuni is not Hawaii. There are no bars or nightclubs jumping way into the night. What you get here is natural beauty, relaxation, a slower pace of life and a simpler world. For those of us caught in the rat race, that can be extremely attractive. And forget the dateline. If you can unwind on the beach as the sun sinks over the palm trees, who cares what day it is?