Pacific Travel

Guests at Serendipper Isle arrive at their own dock. (All Photos: Floyd K. Takeuchi)

The brainchild of Satoshi Yoshii, Serendipper Island (his take on serendipity) is made for quiet contemplation or more vigorous activity alike. To get to "your" private island, you take a 10-minute trip by motorized boat from the jetty near the Hotel Robert Reimers across the lagoon. The contrast between bustling Majuro, capital of the Marshall Islands, and Serendipper couldn't be more dramatic.

The beach bungalow awaits your arrival.

Alighting from the boat, you stow your belongings in the simple but elegant house. It is furnished the way you might decorate your dream beach home-hurricane lamps, shells, lots of clean cream canvas and timber furnishings and a romantic bed draped in mosquito nets.

Yoshii also provides a television and dvds, a sound system and interesting range of magazines. But why would you want to turn any of this on when the sound of the tide, and the clarity of stars in the sky, is so mesmerizing?

Your open-air pavilion.

Exploring the island won't take too long-it's tiny-but there are sufficient spots to escape. You can swing in hammocks under palm trees (coconuts thoughtfully removed to prevent injury), recline in an open air pavilion on the other side of the island, or dig your toes in the sand on your private beach.

A fleet of kayaks means you can take to the water. At high tide the swimming is good and there is plenty to see: coral, shells and fish. At low tide beachcombing can occupy hours. We spent a long time idly watching hermit crabs scurry about, through half-closed eyes.

One of the particular appeals of Serendipper is its eco-friendliness. This is not just window dressing. From the biodegradable slippers provided when you arrive, to the wood chopsticks you use, the composting toilet, eco-friendly detergents and soaps, and the reliance on wind energy, Yoshii has shown great commitment to and resourcefulness in finding fittings in line with the principle of stepping lightly on the earth. But you barely notice all of this; the overwhelming sense is of understated luxury.

Serendipper is self-catering but the kitchen is well equipped with utensils, cooking and dining implements. There is a great attention to detail here. Stock up while on Majuro on food, fruit, water and books and you are set to go.

When you finally tear yourself away from Serendipper, there is another longer-established activity in Majuro we recommend. Spend an hour at sea on a traditional Marshallese outrigger canoe with the Waan Aelon In Majel/Canoes of the Marshall Islands organization.

A Marshallese canoe crew prepares for your sailing expedition.

Marshallese canoes of the past could reach a length of 100 feet and carry up to 40 people, with supplies for open-sea voyages that lasted well over a month. These large vessels, called walap, were not fast. The tipnol was smaller and speedier and used mainly for fishing inside the lagoons: it could still carry 10 or more and be serviceable for ocean voyaging. The korkor was a small paddling outrigger, sometimes fitted with sail, used for lagoon work.

Captain Cook recognized the great speeds of these canoes--12 knots, much more with racing craft-and they sailed considerably faster than his ship could.

The skilled young sailors of Waan Aelon In Majel will take you skimming across the lagoon at great speed if the wind is kind. We headed out towards huge purse seiners and other fishing boats, and were able to watch them disgorge their load at close quarters. We also skirted around a big freighter, which appeared slow and ungainly compared to our craft.

Marshallese navigate by the stars and by feel, trailing their fingers in the waters to determine currents or reading the pull of the water on the craft.

You'll see this skill reflected in the navigation and stick maps found in Majuro's handicraft shops like "Busy Hands," where cowries mark atolls, and bent coconut midrib or pandanus root the currents between and around them.

Stick-charts were used to teach and record the swells of the sea itself. They were not taken to sea, all being set in the memory.

The Waan Aelon In Majel program is aimed at revitalizing and refining traditional Marshallese canoe building skills and helping Marshallese youth. Some of its graduates have gone on to work in trade related jobs in the competitive Hawaii market, using the skills they learnt on the program. By taking a canoe ride, you are not only having a quintessentially Marshallese experience, but also supporting the program's other elements, including life skills and counseling.

For enquiries about staying at Serendipper call (692) 625-3483 or email serendipper@e-mit.net

For Waan Aelon In Majel canoe charters book at the main office just adjacent to the Marshall Islands Resort or phone (692) 625-6123.

For more information about traveling to the Marshall Islands, visit www.visitmarshallislands.com