Pacific Archives

With little argument, some of the best dinners served in Tahiti's capital, Papeete, are those available in the harbor parking lot. Certainly the famous French ambience of lavish (and expensive) cuisine is absent here, but its loss is not the least missed in the pleasant waterfront atmosphere.

As the dinner hour approaches, a row of vans park in a line facing the trees of the green belt that separates Papeete's waterfront from the city's busy thoroughfares. The Chinese drivers, usually with their wives as business associates, quickly become entrepreneurs as the vans' sides are opened to reveal swing-out counters and glass display cases.

From the rear doors come bar stools and portable hibachi charcoal grills on knee-high stands. Even the sound of rush hour traffic begins to fade as 20 or more Honda generators pulsate into the darkening day to light up the activity.

Not long after, the air is filled with the aroma of barbecued chicken and steak, mixed with that of teriyaki sauce and marinated fish. The combination of smell and atmosphere is irresistible, and from miles around hungry people begin moving ward the quay and Papeete's moveable feast.

Chicken, steak, and lobster are typical fare in most vans. Marinated raw fish is a particular favorite of many of the local people. One van even specializes in crepes.

The family nature of these businesses and their low overheads allow them to charge 250 French Pacific Francs (about US$3) for a typical meal, half the cost of the least-expensive offering in most of Papeete's restaurants. And the view of the sunset over Moorea and the romance of all the yachts tied to the seawall may make you wish to dine every night at Papeete's moveable feast.