Pacific Magazine > Magazine > January 1, 2008

Pac Travel

In The Footsteps Of History

Walking the Kokoda Track

By Lucy Lowing, Sydney

Bomana military cemetery outside Port Moresby. Photo: John Ridgway

Papua New Guinea’s Kokoda Track is the new Anzac Cove to many Australians—a pilgrimage that thousands of people make every year to honor the soldiers who fought there during World War II. And as the plane circled above the Kokoda airstrip I was filled with a sense of trepidation and excitement. It was something I had wanted to do for a long time and although I did not have any relatives who fought on the Kokoda Track it would be an emotional journey to the country of my childhood; an adventure and a time to reflect.

The lead up to this walk had involved numerous trips to camping supply stores to ensure that I had all the right gear; plenty of running, boxing and yoga to make sure I was physically prepared, and, of course and perhaps most importantly, walking to and from work in my boots to ensure that my feet were ready. Overall I felt both physically and emotionally prepared for what lay ahead.

To start at the Kokoda end of the track as we did, you need to take a short flight—about 30 minutes— from Port Moresby to Kokoda in Oro Province. Two airlines fly there, Airlines PNG and Tropicair.

Crossing the Goldie River with the assistance of local guides. Photo: John Ridgway

The Kokoda Track is 98 kilometers (61 miles) long and we took eight days to walk it.  The days were long and filled with gradual and steep ascends and descends through rainforests. It rained most afternoons as we reached our campsites and this made for treacherous walking conditions the following day.

In the tradition of the ANZAC soldiers on the Kokoda Track, I followed my porter’s step as we made our way along the track pulling myself up—and being pulled up—and watching my step carefully as I navigated my way over the tree roots that covered the track. We crossed rivers balancing precariously on log crossings; waded through rivers and creeks and trudged through mud that came up to our knees. At times I wondered why I was doing this but when I looked at my surroundings and heard the stories of those that fought and gave their lives I felt humbled by the experience.

Isurava Memorial for me was perhaps one of the most moving experiences on the track. The memorial marks the site of a significant World War II battle fought along the Kokoda Track. There are four stone plaques with the words “Courage,” “Sacrifice,” “Mateship” and “Endurance” remembering those Australian soldiers who fought along the Kokoda Track and who paid the ultimate sacrifice with their lives. It was so peaceful looking out across the Kokoda and Yodda Valleys it was hard to imagine the savage fighting that occurred at this site.

Some of the group had the courage—or foolishness—to go for an optional “quick” two and a half hour afternoon trek in torrential rain and mud to Myola Lake, although the lake exists no longer. On the way they passed the site where an American war plane met its doom and also ventured perilously close to an unexploded bomb. Myola Lake was breath-taking. A relatively flat field about the size of 200 football fields surrounded by jagged mountain peaks it was used for a time as a landing strip and was certainly a highlight for those who made the effort.

I also enjoyed eating the local produce in the villages where we stayed. The sweet potato, potato and choko leaves cooked by the local village people together with boiled rice and tinned tuna were delicious. We also enjoyed the sweet pineapples, bananas and paw paw along the way and the occasional Coke to replenish our depleted sugar levels. Musical entertainment provided by our porters each night as they sang local songs—such as “My Aussie Girl is Waiting for me!”—accompanied by a ukulele, was also great.

Our final day included a climb from Va’ule Creek up to Imita Ridge before commencing a steep descent down the “Golden Stairs” to Goldie River. Here we took off our boots and crossed Goldie River before we began our final climb to Owers Corner.

Before we began that climb we were given crowns of local flowers made by our porters.  The climb to Owers Corner was extremely steep and it was incredibly hot but knowing that you were only a short distance from completing the Kokoda Track made it that bit easier.

Not withstanding the heat, the humidity, the cold nights and uncomfortable sleeping conditions it was a journey well worth taking. I did not have any life changing epiphanies but I feel much richer from the experience.